Last Night In Italy (as long as the volcano stays calm)

I can't believe I am here, I made it to my last night in Italy. I feel like now that this trip is near the end it when by really fast. Although I know there were times it felt never ending, frustrating, and home seemed a million miles away. But I made it! (With lots of help and encouragement from everyone at home.) You guys have no idea how much every email, ichat, and blog comment meant to me. I thought on this last night here, between repacking my insane suitcases, I would recap my favorite places from my trip. This is a little selfish because it will all be repeats, but I want to wrap everything up in my mind. So here it goes:

My first favorite memory is my day spent seeing the ancient ruins of Rome. Yes they are typical tourist sites, but they were so incredible. I loved the forum, palatine hill, and the colosseum. I realized that day how many layers of history existed in that city and how long people had been trying to make a life there.

My next all time favorite moment was sitting on my balcony in Positano. I still think of how beautiful, calm, and breath taking that little town was. I was also really proud of myself for making it there, on trains through different cities, all on my own. I planned everything and struck out to see what I could find. That was the first of many moments were I become a little braver and a little more adventurous.

I think I will always look back Rome and remember the following: buses, churches, and fountains. One of my favorite things to do there was to find water fountains and fill up my water bottles. This sounds kind of silly but the fountains are all over and it was so neat to know a lot of them used old Roman aqueducts. It was also something I really missed in other cities, how incredibly convenient!

Sienna was probably my favorite new town. It was quiet, friendly, cobble stoned, and peaceful. I was so happy when I arrived from Rome. There were no vespas running me over, no graffiti, no one rolled their eyes at my italian. It was heavenly. I started to relax in Sienna and see italian things I hadn't noticed before. Like grandma's pushing baby carriages and cooing over little ones. And old men and women standing in doorways gossiping. Kids coming home from soccer (futbol) practice. And groups of teenage girls prancing around the campo. It was the italy you dream about. I can't wait to go back.

My return to Venice shocked me in so many ways. I was so comfortable walking those streets, felt so safe, and was guidebook and map free. I'll never forget watching people in San Marco late at night dancing and listening to the orchestras. I'll also never forget watching the Stanley Cup playoffs in a bar in Venice while drinking prosecco. Venice was, as always, fabulous.

There were lots of other memorable moments on this trip, like the pantheon, the churches, school, my host family, tivoli, and watching soccer games. But when I start to day dream about where I am have been the last month, these are the memories that come back to me. I'm so excited to come tomorrow, but I am thrilled by this wonderful trip I've been on and all the wonderful things I've seen and learned. I'll never forget this adventure.

Como, Day 2

It was still raining this morning but it stopped around 11 am. I was actually able to enjoy Como today and found it beautiful and peaceful. After a breakfast that included cold cuts instead of cookies (yay) I started wandering around town. I found my way to the lake and bought a one hour round trip boat ticket. It was still a little foggy and grey when my boat took off on the lake but the sun came out some and there were some gorgeous clouds in the mountains. There were very few people on the boat so I got a great seat at the back. It was a little damp but I didn't care, I was determined to enjoy the scenery.

After my boat ride, I grabbed a quick bite to eat by the duomo here, then wandered around some. It is pretty quiet in Como, I don't think many people are visiting because of the weather. I'm also really, really glad I did not send my trench coat home after Rome, I've needed it a lot.

I also bought my 8.20 euro train ticket for tomorrow to get me to Malpensa Airport. I'm flying home Wednesday but the Milan airport is almsot 30 kilometers from Milan. I've got a hotel that is 2 km from the airport so my Wednesday morning will be a lot easier. I'm pretty ready to come home, I won't lie. I'm really excited to see some of my dear friends and especially my family. This has been an adventure and it has been completely amazing but I'm ready to be back in Texas. As one of our friends in Venice put it so perfectly, when I told him I would be happy to go home he responded "of course, that is why it is called home."

Lake Como

Today was a long day, and it is only 6pm. I left Venice and sunshine on a train at 9:50 this morning and arrived in Milano about 12:45. I had about 20 minutes until my train to Como left so I grabbed some pizza, and boarded my train which was when things got difficult. I'm still not sure why there were so many people without seats. It took me 15 minutes just to get to my seat only to find someone sitting in it. They didn't have an assigned seat so they moved, but then I had to get all my baggage out of the way. Another ten minutes later I had my two bags stored and was back in my seat. Did I mention the train had started moving sometime during this process. The train went all the way to Zurich and thankfully I was getting off at the first stop. In the end, the overcrowding and stress of getting my bags put me in a bit of a bad mood. This only increased when I got lost and overwhelmed trying to find my hotel. Thankfully I have fabulous parents who don't mind (too much) being woken up at 6:30 am by a frantic daughter lugging heavy bags around Italy.

My hotel is lovely and has a great view of a pretty square. I walked down to the water and got some ice cream just as it started to rain. I had a few days in Venice without any rain so I suppose it was time. It is still coming down outside, which is ok with me, I'm glad to relax and shower and maybe iron. Clothes get really wrinkled when they stay inside a suitcase for days on end. Tomorrow I want to try to take a boat around the lake and relax some more. The best thing I did on this whole trip was plan such a calm ending. I can't see any more museums, monuments, or churches for a long time.

Burano

Yesterday I walked around Venice and bought a mask which I haven't done in few years so it was really fun. I chose a traditional mask for women, it is black with small white swirls around the face, only two eye holes. Very mysterious. I had lunch at a small place behind the Rialto that has some of the best sandwiches in the world. Then I got a boat and made it out to Burano in the afternoon. I got to there around 1:30 and stayed until about 3. The island is about a 40 minute boat ride from Venice, first stopping in Murano then Burano. Just as Murano is known for glass, Burano is known for lacework. There are bright colored buildings, a million little lace shops, and a small canal. I want to live in a hot pink house too.

Yesterday evening I went to an old favorite restaurant and after dinner wandered to San Marco. There are dueling orchestras at all the major cafes on the square in the evenings. With the cathedral in the background, the lights around the square, people dancing, and the music it was one of the best moments of my entire trip. If any of you have seen the movie "Paris Je'taime" the last short video is of this american woman traveling in Paris. She has this wonderful moment one afternoon of being happy and feeling alive. If you haven't seen the movie, you really should, or at least watch this video. http://videos.sapo.pt/PURgOM4QTleLIsTW1bQ3 I love this clip and think of her often as I travel on my own. I spend a lot of time in my head, so to speak, listening to my own continuous monologue. But there have been these wonderful moments during this trip, where I feel so happy and so in love with the world I tear up and laugh simultaneously. Yes I am starting to get mushy, but I'll be home in four days, so I'm thinking a lot about the last month and a half. Well last night was one of those moments where I was in this blissed out, love the world and everyone in it mood.

Of course today I forgot to upload the pictures and video of the orchestra onto my computer. So look for them tomorrow when I get to Lake Como.

There are lots of things I have learned that I love in the States and the random things I've been homesick for. For example breakfast that consists of more than a pastry. The bar I am using for Wi-Fi has ESPN America playing. Now you know me, I only watch espn for Aggie football and the Washington Capitals Hockey. Even so, having on American tv channel showing sports announcers and watching the Stanley Cup playoffs made me come close to tears.

Tomorrow I say goodbye to Venezia and hop on a train to Milan at 9:50 am. I switch to a different train that takes me to Lake Como where I'll be staying in the town of Como for two nights. I should have wi-fi so expect lots of pictures of the lake! Then I had to Milan for my last night in Italy. I'm excited to come home but there is a lot I'll miss from Italy. For now I am content to watch the hockey game and drink a glass of prosecco!

Venice = happiness

Ahhh. That is how I felt when I got off the train in Venice yesterday. This place is like another home to me, it is so familiar and filled with so many happy memories. I miss the following people: mama, daddy, kate, aunt jan, uncle robert and auntie anna. My usual Venice crowd! Especially Kate, we have had so much fun in this city and have grown up here in a way. Yesterday was nice and sunny until about 6 pm. I tried to find this internet place but had zero success in the rain so I gave up early. I strolled yesterday and reintroduced myself to Venice. This included a walk down to the Rialto, through San Marco, a glass of prossecco at the Cafe Florian, and more strolling. I was in heaven and giddy. This place really is magical and as much as I love other cities I've visited, Venice will always be my 'home' in Italy.

All in all this place is good for the soul. Even if it is really crowded. I have found that once you get away from San Marco, even just a few streets, the crowds disappear. This is really true were my apartment is, just a few streets from the Frari Church. I have never stayed in this area but I love it. It is much quieter and I can hear the bells from the Frari in my little room! Aunt Jan, I am not in ya'lls apartment but the smaller one right next to it.

Today is sunny so far, so I am going to try to go out to one of the islands, maybe Burano or Torcello, I haven't decided. I'll be checking my email at least every morning and trying to post more. Sending Venice love to everyone

Firenze: Updated

Here a few more pictures of Florence. They pretty much sum up the weather for my entire trip there. Ug. However, on the last night I finally really enjoyed myself, and understand why people are Florence obsessed.

I've had mixed feelings about Florence the last two days. Yes, I know what your are thinking, how can you have mixed feelings about a city as amazing as Florence? Well, for a few reasons. One it hasn't stopped raining, two, it is really expensive here even little churches charge 3.50 entrance fee, three, there is no public transportation and my feet really really hurt, four, I just can't get into the Florence spirit. Here are the things I like about Florence. The shopping even window shopping is incredible, the ice cream is the best I've ever had, the steaks are really really good, and everyone seems to drink wine all the time. It is really pretty city and there is much less traffic than in Rome. Lots of the city streets are pedestrian only and there are some killer markets. I think my general malaise really stems from being tired of traveling. I'm getting to really miss my friends and family, and wishing I had someone to share all the things I am seeing.

Don't worry I am still enjoying myself. And yes, I know, I know I am in Italy, how could one be tired! I will love this city no matter what, rain or shine (very little shine). My first day I walked to the Duomo, which is really beautiful. I then sauntered down the main shopping drag, gelato in hand, and walked to the Ponte Vecchio. It was even more beautiful than I had imagined. After this it was late so I walked back to my hotel to get ready for dinner. I had a lovely evening with two american couples. Waiters usually seat me close to other americans so I can have someone to talk to, eating alone in Italy is considered odd. Turns out one of the couples were from San Antonio! Small world, and (Aunt Jan) their son teaches in the Bandera School District. They were very friendly and made me feel so much better. My meal was also amazing, it was a fixed price three course dinner. I had a minestrone soup, thin steak sliced over arugula with hunks of parmesan cheese, a salad, water and a 1/4 liter of red wine. For 13 euros! I felt so much better having talked with these people that on my walk home I began to fall in love with Florence.

This morning I woke to rain falling on my window. I had a 10 am reservation at the Accademia which is very close to my hotel. My following statement probably will upset some people, but here it goes. I won't pretend to be an art person, and usually only understand art when I have an artist (Kate) along as a guide. The David was impressive but the Accademia did not too much for me as par as museums go. There were mainly Pre-Renaisance religious paintings and I can only look at so many gold Madonna and Childs in one day. Afterwards, I visisted the main market for meat and produce which was really neat. Tripe is very big here, the first picture up there is of one meat counter and tripe (I think). The second photo is of the amazing roast beef that was put on my sandwich for lunch. Yum. I went to do some laundry after all of this because I was out of socks, which is not good. I meet a really nice woman who was travelling with her daughter and we all talked for the hour that our clothes were being washed.

I took a walk this afternoon and started to feel myself being pulled into Florence. I think I am starting to "get" this town. It smells like leather and wine, has cobblestone streets, and is calmer than Rome.

Internet Difficulties

Well, my new hotel has Wi-Fi, supposedly. However, every time I try to connect nothing happens. The woman at the front desk told me sometimes Apples do not connect for some reason, which I find a little odd. I will keep trying because I really want to update with pictures from Siena and everywhere else. Sorry for no photos, if the internet here continues to be broken then I am going to find an internet place where I can plug into Wi-Fi. Also, it looks like it will rain all day, so I will be doing as much indoor as possible.

Siena

This town is amazing! It is really beautiful, peaceful, friendly, and set in the hills of Tuscany. Yesterday when I arrived it was sunny and warm but I got lost very quickly. There are lots of step hills and lugging around my bags and that box that I was going to mail at the postoffice was not fun. It took me almost an hour to find my hotel which was really frustrating. After a quick rest I decided to treat myself to some gelato and things started looking up. This is a town made for strolling. The streets remind me of Venice, without the canals of course, because they are narrow and cobblestoned and have gorgeous views. I strolled to the main Campo which is said to be one of the best pizzias or campos in Italy, and after yesterday I am inclined to agree. It's made of sloping bricks where people lay and sit together watching everyone else. It really is the heart of the city. Kids chased pigeons, couples lounged, friends drank wine, grandparents watched the babies, and tourists like myself wrote postcards. It was a beautiful scene.

Afterwards I did a little shopping and then went to dinner. I met a nice italian couple who were trying to find the same place and we sat close to each other and chatted throughout the meal. I made friends with the waiters, it seems to happen when I have no company of my own. For dinner I had paparadelle with cingialle sauce. Dad, it was incredible, and yours is pretty close to theirs! I had a nice little torte and then they brought me some biscotti like cookies and sweet wine to dip them. It started to rain so I raced back to my hotel and sadly when I woke up this morning it was still raining. I plan to go into the big church here this afternoon, buy my ticket for tomorrow, and maybe do some laundry. This city is beautiful and I think every single person reading this blog would love it, so mark Siena on your places to go list.

I am using the computer in the hotel and therefore I can't upload any of my pictures. I will post photos when I get to Florence tomorrow and find Wi-Fi. Also, any random typos are probably because the keyboards are slightly different here. All in all this place is great and just what I needed coming from the hustle and bustle of Rome.

Last Few Days in Roma

I've had a lot going on this week and haven't had a chance until now to post anything. Tonight is my last night in Roma. I am excited about the next part of my trip but sad to leave. Before launching into my parting feelings I'll fill you in on what I have been up to this week. Wednesday I saw the Pope! I got to St. Peters very early, at nine, and read "Murder on the Orient Express" for an hour and a half. In retrospect there are probably more appropriate things I could have been reading, but oh well. At 10:30 he appeared and everyone got very excited. I had a seat near the front but everyone stood up on their chairs to see him pass by in the pope-mobile. It was pretty incredible, I could actually see his facial features, he was right there. He circled the crowd then went up to the steps of the basilica. Then, in seven languages, the passage 'Love is patient, love is kind' was read to the crowds. Those languages were: italian, german, english, french, spanish, polish, and portuguese. Then the Pope read in italian and I understood some. He spoke about visiting some very impoverished people and then seeing lots of volunteers helping them. That was the gist anyway. After that all of the pilgrim groups visiting that day were announced again in each of the seven languages. The groups would cheer when called, and the Pope would give a wave in their direction. The Pope then spoke briefly to each language group. Finally, we said the Lord's Prayer in latin, led by the Pope, and closed with a blessing from him. Just so you know, the blessing extends to all my family and loved ones. It was an incredible and unforgettable morning. I don't think words can really express how I felt being so close to the Pope and surrounded by other pilgrims. So, I won't try. Here are some of the pictures I managed to get of him.

Yesterday I went to Galleria Borghese which is located in the beautiful park I visited a week ago. This museum was incredible to say the very least. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed anywhere in the museum. Also, you are only allowed to visit for two hours and must reserve a ticket for a specific two hour time slot. It was more than worth the hassle. It is a villa that belonged to a cardinal who wanted a place to show case art and culture. I bought a book from the museum that has pictures, please remind me to show you my favorites. There were some sculptures that are the most amazing and beautiful I have ever seen. They make other pieces look like hunks of marble with no definition. These seemed alive.

That brings us to today. I went to school for the last time. I really loved my class and especially my teacher. I can't say enough about both. Then afterwards, I went to lunch with my friend Sara and we lingered afterwards talking about our homes, italian, our own languages, and how we must visit each other someday. We finally left around 2:45 and I stolled over to the post office to send a package home.

This is were things got very typical Rome/Italian. Turns out, because tomorrow is a big holiday, the post office closed early today at 1pm. Oops. So I had to carry my box around some more, by the way it is full of books. I decided it would be good to go and buy my ticket for tomorrow at the other train station. I got on the metro and found the second train/bus station in Rome. I went to one ticket counter, then another, then another, then another. Finally, after running between four different ticket counters all over the place, I found the right one. It was hot, I was tired, and my box was really heavy. The great thing about Italy is that it seems totally unorganized but, just went you are swearing under your breath, it pulls through like a champ. At the correct counter the ticket guy told me I had a nice smile and to be calm, in a nice way. He then helped me in english buy the right ticket for tomorrow and even said he liked my accent. He said he learned italian with americans and loves the way we speak italian and english for the matter. See what I mean? There you are hot and annoyed and then like magic everything is ok. It is an amazing place. Here is a picture of the Termini.

On my way 'home' I bought some flowers for my donna as a thank you. She called me 'molto gentile' which is pretty much the highest complement you can get in italian. It sort of means, nice or polite, but it connotes gentleness, good manners, and a truly kind nature. Then sadly I started packing.

I have been keeping a running list of things I'll miss in Rome and things I won't miss. I think right now almost everything has been switched into the "will miss" column. Here is what I have so far:

My school

my teacher and classmates

the cooking (host family mom)

my bus (it is a love/hate relationship)

the metro

my snack bar by school

walking through the termini everyday

the fountains, the fountains, the fountains

the vespas (although they are throughout italy)

coffee break at school

passing by ruins on a daily basis

my host family

There is so much more that I love about this city. I probably won't realize everything until I leave. Finally, I want to post my itinerary before heading out! Internet will be harder to find in the next few days so everyone be patient with me while I try to find Wi-Fi.

Leave Roma Saturday for Sienna via bus

Two nights in Sienna

Onto Firenze via train, three nights

Onto Venezia via train, three nights

Onto Lago di Como, via train, two nights

Backtrack to Milano, spend one night and fly home Wednesday the 12th. Whew.

For now, Ciao Roma!

Vatican Museum 1: Liz 0

It was gloomy and rainy today so I decided to go to the Vatican Museum. I only have three more sites on my list to do before I leave, the Vatican being one of them. I knew it would be packed, hectic, and overrun with tour groups and it was, but still amazing. All I remember about the museum when I was little and went with my parents was looking down a hallway that seemed to go on forever and being really, really tired whenever we got to the Sistine Chapel. I wish I could report that twelve years later I was tougher and didn't get tired, but once again the Vatican won. I managed to keep my spirits up until the Sistine Chapel, but after that my legs and feet hurt, and I was getting the museum look. You know, when your eyes glaze over and even if the most amazing artwork is in front of you, you don't care and just want to sitdown and nap. I almost saw everything, almost. Maybe in another 12 years I'll see it all.

The museum has two main sections: Egyptian/Ancient and Renaissance. The Egyptian rooms were really neat. Let's be honest, seeing an actual mummy in a sarcophagus is pretty cool. I also really liked all the giant statues of gods as animals.

Then there was the animal room, followed by ancient Greek and Roman sculptures. There were some beautiful mosaics. Speaking of mosaics I have decided that in my future home a simple, small mosaic is going to be necessary. I've become totally obsessed with them to the point that I may dedicate an entire post to the wonder of mosaics.

This is a bearded old River god, but more importantly, the pose inspired Michelangelo's Adam in the Sistine Chapel.

All that is left of an ancient statue of Hercules. Michelangelo loved it and would say "I am the pupil of the Torso."

After all this I began the quarter mile walk to the Sistine Chapel. This walk consisted of tapestries, the map hall, and finally the breathtaking Renaissance works. I actually gasped when I entered a few of the rooms, they were so beautiful. It was this walk that I remember from being a kid, the hallways seem endless. At least it was pretty, I especially loved the ceilings.

Then came the rooms Raphael painted for the Pope. They were incredible. Equally amazing is that Michelangelo worked on the Sistine Chapel just down the hall while Raphael painted these rooms. It is fun to imagine these artists working in the same building. I really liked Rapheal's rooms, especially The School of Athens. It portrays the philosophers of ancient greece, with Plato and Aristotle surrounded by thinkers and scientists. Also, this fresco was enormous, it is hard to get an idea of scale in these pictures. These were the final rooms leading up to the Sistine Chapel.

After these rooms, I finally entered the Sistine Chapel. Sorry, no pictures allowed. I didn't want to take sneak pictures because 1. they wouldn't turn out that great anyway and 2. I didn't feel like getting yelled at by the guards in the room and forced to delete my pictures. What can I possibly say about the Sistine Chapel that hasn't been said a thousand times before. It was enormous, bright, beautiful, and incredible. I spent about 30 minutes getting a crick in my neck staring upwards. One of the many things that makes it so amazing is that this huge ceiling was created by one man. Paintings and frescos are a mystery to me. I don't know how artists start with a blank canvas and then create these amazing, three dimensional works. A few facts: it is 5,900 square feet, it depicts the history of the world until the birth of Jesus, and took four years to finish (1508-1512).

At the other end of the room is the Last Judgment which Michelangelo also painted but twenty three years after the ceiling. It was also massive and depicts exactly what it the title indicates, judgement day for mankind. The souls are pulled out of the ground by angels and then sorted by a stern looking Jesus into two groups. The 'good' people go to Heaven, and then the 'bad' group well, I think we all know where they went. Again, no pictures allowed but it was also stunning and a bit terrifying. After this, I began the very long trek back to the exit. I will say this about the museum, it is a must see for a reason. There are incredible sculptures, frescos, and artifacts in a beautiful setting. Despite the crowds the Sistine Chapel really is amazing. I finally made it to the exit and back into rain. I got 'home' an hour later and was treated to another fabulous meal. I am really going to miss this woman's cooking.