Good Morning

I had my first italian dream last night. I actually spoke in italian at random times throughout my dream, I think that is really cool.

Sunny day

I am really tired. I seem to consistently underestimate walking distances in Rome and accordingly, wear myself out completely. Thankfully there are water fountains and churches to help me along the way. Class was fun today, as usual. We spent the last half hour working on intonation by making up a few sentences and practicing saying them over and over until they were perfect. Then we acted them out in front of the class, all 5 of us. Our story was about two friends who were supposed to meet for a movie at 7:45, but one showed up at 8:30, meaning they had to wait until the later showing. Our sentences were:

Luisa: OOOhhhh Buonasera! Sei in ritardo per questo spettacolo o sei in anticipo per il prossimo?

Maria: Scusami, non `e stata colpa mia!

It was really fun because we had to say the first line very sarcastically, trying to emmulate the passion in italian conversation. I swear I said that phrase 20 times! We said it faster and with more attitude, until finally we got up in pairs and acted everything out, being very silly. It was really fun. Tomorrow we find out why Maria was so late.

After class I bused to the Piazza Venezia. I saw the Vittorio Emmanuele monument, which is gigantic. It has the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and some good views of the Piazza Venezia. I took a picture of the streets by the Piazza because they are busy and crazy and show what it is like walking around central Rome.

Afterwards I went to the Musei Capitolini. It was located right behind the giant Vittorio Emmanuele monument and next to the forum. It was a neat museum, unfortunately I couldn't take pictures in my favorite rooms. They had lots of interesting things like paintings and ancient sculptures, but it was a little confusing finding rooms and exhibits.

Marcus Aurelius, known for his Meditations (and yes, the movie Gladiator)

The She-Wolf and Romulus and Remus, symbol of Rome.

The China room (mom this is for you)

Beautiful setting, check out the chandeliers

One of the most famous sculptures in the museum, "The Dying Gaul" a first century BC copy of a Greek original. Picture doesn't do it justice, but this was an incredible statue, very moving.

After the museum I found the elevator that takes you to the top of the Vittorio Emmanuele monument for great views of Rome. This was part of my planned outing. I'm glad I went today because it was a gorgeous clear day and I could really see all of Rome. I'm also glad I went this far into my trip because I actually recognized several of the buildings. I saw the Pantheon, St. Peters, Circus Maximus, and the Colosseum.

Afterwards is when I got a little walking crazy, I think the sunshine went to my head. I decided to walk down Via Cavour, a major street, to see the church Santa Maria in Maggiore. (not part of my planned outing) This sounds reasonable right? Not so much. By the time I found the church I was exhausted. Thankfully churches offer seating with a beautiful view. So I sat for a good half hour enjoying mosaics and the pretty ceiling.

I emerged and realized I had walked almost back to the train station. So I went to the train station, walked a million miles underground to get to the train, got to my Metro stop, and took the bus home. Whew. I have a list of things I want to see before I go so I am pushing myself a little bit. Now getting ready for a yummy meal with my italian family and then off to sleep!

(also, Happy San Jacinto Day AND Muster to all you Aggies!)

Typical day in Roma

I think something is happening to my brain concerning italian. It has finally given up fighting and started to speak and understand this language! I decided to use this post to show what sort of things I see on a daily basis. Like my walk to and from the bus, my friends at school, and a nice little walk I took this afternoon. That is the wisteria I walk past everyday and the other picture is of the street right before I turn into the apartment. The last picture is what the apartment looks like inside the fence. I took the picture standing in the doorway to the building. It is very pretty and the wall keeps it quiet at night.

I had a great day in school today and afterwards my friend Sara invited me out to lunch with some of her friends. Two of them were also Korean and the other was Swiss. No one else spoke english, so we all spoke italian! We went to a great restaurant that has some deal with the school for cheap lunches. My tortellini was less than 5 euro. We talked about lots of things and I found myself growing more confident and trying to speak more than usual. They were all so kind and encouraging I didn't ever feel dumb for making a mistake. It was a gorgeous sunny day today and the second part of class we sat outside on the terrace. We don't normally do this, but our teacher made an exception. In the picture, she is the in the front at the left. She is also the one who looks like an italian Fran Drescher. The girl in the picture with me is my friend Sara.

After lunch I went back to the apartment and then ventured out towards the Appian Way. I didn't really have an idea about the time, and realized I couldn't make it today because they close at 5. It was 4:30. Oops. By the way, the Appian Way consists of the old catacombs that Christians dug and used as cemeteries because no one could be buried within the Roman walls. More on that later when I actually visit. I found a beautiful park to walk through. Afterwards I kept walking, did a little window shopping, and bought some of the best gelato I have ever had. And I have had a lot of gelato. I am going to try to take more picture of 'daily life'. Things like city streets, and bars, school, buses, and whatever else I see besides the sites. I am also planning my next two weeks out. I don't have much left that I want to see in Rome. I love it here but I think I'll be excited to leave and see another part of Italy.

St. Peter's Basilica and Roma beats Lazio!

Today was a great day in Rome. I'm not sure whether the first half or second half was the best part, but it is a day I will never forget.

I started my day with a fun ichat with my dearest friend, and then set off to San Pietro. I had high hopes that I would see the Pope at noon. But noon came and all I saw was a video of the Pope giving mass somewhere, not St. Peter's. I was very touched by a group of Poles who had pictures and signs for their president who recently passed away.

I was getting hungry and the sun was starting to be too intense (it has been a while since I spent a summer in Texas). So what does one do when they are tired and in Rome? Eat of course! I found a wonderful little family restaurant, again Rick Steve's recommendation. I had pizza funghi and una birra piccolo. Yummy. I also made friends with the people sitting next to me. One guy spoke english and told me his wife was from California.

Refreshed I went back to the Vatican this time to go inside the Basilica. There are very few words in the english language to describe how magnificent St. Peter's is. These pictures barely do it justice. A few fun facts: it can hold 60,000 people, it is built to appear smaller and thereby more welcoming (example: the baby cupids at the bottom of the huge pillars, are about as big a grown man), St. Peter is actually buried underneath the church, it was built on the spot where St. Peter was crucified, and the church covers 6 acres. Huge.

The dome was Michelangelo's design, however, he died before it was completed. To give you an idea of size: is it 430 feet from the floor to the top of the dome.

Finally I made it to Michelangelo's Pieta (which means pity). It depicts Mary holding Christ after he was taken down from the cross. Michelangelo was only 24 when he made it (my age!). Sadly, it is behind bullet proof glass because in the 70's some crazy guy took a hammer to the sculpture. Very awful, but the Pieta was very moving and very beautiful.

After doing my audio tour courtesy of Rick Steves' I made it just in time for mass. They had the main part of the alter closed off, I assume for sunday mass. If you notice in my pictures, I wasn't able to walk up to the main alter which is underneath the massive bronze canopy. However, I was able to get behind the barricades to attend mass. So I got to see things up close anyway! To clarify, the alter underneath the massive iron structure is only for the Pope to give mass. The second alter is behind it, underneath the big gold structure and the gold stained glass with the dove. It is hard to see in the picture, but just look on the very farthest wall. That is were I sat for mass. Factoid: the dove is as big across as an adult.

I didn't take any pictures while I was there, just enjoyed the moment. I actually understood some of the readings and the homily. For such an enormous church it felt very intimate. Probably because the entire church was behind me. They only let people who are going to mass into the fenced off area. There were lots of nuns and clergy, and people from all over the world. It was one of my favorite moments in Rome. After mass I sat and enjoyed the view, only to be handed the printed booklet for vespers. So, having enough time left and not ready to leave, I stayed for vespers. It was beautiful, moving, and everything it should have been. There was incense and priests and bishops leading us. The guy next to me was American (we found out when we both said 'peace be with you' instead of just pace during mass) and loaned me his copy of the evening prayers in english. Soon enough it was over, and about 2.5 hours after I started my tour, I emerged from the basilica.

My way home was really tiring, I waited for my bus for at least 45 minutes. Ug. Those are the times I wish I had a car! But I made it. I came into the house and smack dab into a huge group of italians watching futbol (soccer). I was quickly told this was the big Roma vs. Lazio game. To put this into perspective. It is like A&M vs. UT, UT vs. OU, Dallas vs. Redskins. It is a BIG DEAL. Roma and Lazio are both based in Rome and are bitter enemies. Guidebooks warn you not to take sides openly as a tourist as it can lead to brawls. Since my family is 'da roma' so am I. And... WE WON! Yay! People were jumping and cheering and waving flags in the living room. Then everyone started kissing me on the cheek. Thankfully, there was a woman who spoke wonderful english and explained what was going on. Apparently, roma was losing during the first part of the game. But I showed up for the second part and we won. Therefore, roma won because of me. Yep, that was the logic, and any of you diehard sports fans out there must agree. I was Santa Elisabetta, savior of roma and making friends fast.

After this, we ate. My family has a huge outdoor patio which they had lit with lots of candles. We had homemade lasagna, a parmagianno baked something, some sort of quiche, veggies, prosecco, and then assorted sweets. I talked a lot with the woman who spoke english. There were kids and adults, prosecco and coke, and lots and lots of food. It was loud and crazy and wonderful. We raised our glasses to roma. People kept asking me 'who is the best team' to which I replied, 'da roma!'. Looking at the table of loud, wonderful italians I felt like I was in a movie or a dream. It was just what you imagine italian parties to be. I was so happy and couldn't stop grinning. Everyone was happy, car horns were honking in the streets, and I had one of the most memorable evenings in Rome.

Trastevere

I finally felt well enough to have a full day of sight seeing again. I also am happy to report the general malaise I had been feeling from being sick totally vanished. I just needed to get out of doors, into the sun, and back out to Rome. I decided to venture across the Tiber River to the neighborhood just south of the Vatican called Trastevere. It is a very traditional area and some residents are proud to say they have never crossed the river into the rest of Rome. Reminds me of the older people in Venice who are proud that they have never seen San Marco because they just stay in their little neighborhood. I loved this area. My guide books all describe it as the "left bank" of Rome, the romantic and crustier part of Rome, the 'real' Rome. It felt like a completely different city. It was all cobblestones and seemed to have a slower pace. Pictured below a bridge, and of course the Tiber River.

I started my little walking tour on the Ponte Cestio or Ponte Fabrico depending on which side of the river you are standing. My meandering led me through little streets and alley ways. It was so peaceful and quite. I arrived at the Church of St. Cecilia, who happens to be my patron saint! It was a very pretty church, possibly one of my all time favorites. It was built in the 9th century, although heavily restored in the 18th century. Her tomb was particularly moving because of the statue by Maderno. It was really lovely. I paid to take a quick tour of the crypt which didn't have a lot to see but was still pretty cool.

After this I started wandering and while looking for a lunch spot got really, really lost. Trastevere is not as easy to navigate as the rest of Rome. After a good 20 minutes of trying to find out where on earth I was, I finally got myself straightened out. Another 20 minutes later I found the trattoria I wanted to go to for lunch. Needless to say by now I was really hungry. It was worth my time and frustrations. A charming little family run, since 1933, trattoria called Trattoria da Lucia (mom!). I decided to have a dish that they are known for, spaghetti alla grecia. After a good meal and coffee of course, I was refreshed to go on and get lost again.

I started wandering, found some pistachio gelato (for those of you who haven't had it, it sounds weird but it is SO good!), and magically stumbled onto the square I needed to find! Sometimes, only sometimes, wandering without obsessive map checking and just enjoying the sun can actually work out for the best. I enjoyed my gelato sitting by the fountain and talking on the phone to my mom and dad.

Next, I ventured into the Santa Maria in Trastevere church. It is one of Rome's oldest churches and contained mosaics from the 1300's. It was beautiful and mysterious. I put in some money to turn on the light so I, and everyone else, could enjoy the mosaics. It is one of the few surviving early medieval mosaics in Rome. This part of the city wasn't as crowded and the church was much more peaceful than usual. It never fails to amaze me when I see such stunningly beautiful places knowing that were handcrafted so long ago. Even the mosaic floor you see is the original from the 1300's. Incredible.

After this I sat in the square for a good 30 minutes and people watched. It was such a hub of activity. I was sad to leave but I wanted to find a special cookie/bakery before I started to head home. This was yet another adventure with my map but I found Biscottifico Artigiano Innocenti. I got a mixed 1/2 kilo of everything. It is a lot of cookies but I think, somehow I'll manage to eat them!

All in all a good but tiring day. It took me an hour of bus riding to get 'home' this evening but I made it for dinner with my family which was yummy as usual. Tomorrow I am going to try to go to the Vatican and maybe an outdoor market. It will be another day of long bus rides but this will probably be my last full weekend in Rome. Next weekend I hope to take another trip somewhere and the weekend after that I will be leaving Rome! I can't believe it has already been two weeks. I feel so lucky to have this kind of time to spend exploring Italy!

Still Sick :(

Sadly, I had to miss school today. I am a bundle of germs and feel like my head may fall off after one more sneeze. My host mom made me chamomile tea and some toast. I anticipated being sick and brought a pharmacy with me, including (Aunt Jan) zinc tablets, vitamin C tablets, Emergen-C, and I don't even know what else. I really hate missing class, but since it is based on class participation there is no way I could go, I would let my groups down. That is about it! Sorry no cool pictures today I am afraid, I have a feeling tomorrow I will be better!

Cutest thing happened at dinner. The little boy, Edwardo, or Dodo for short, brought out his english book from school. We went through it together, he would say words in english and I would say them in Italian. Yes he is 8 and we can just about communicate on the same level. But he was so patient and made sure I understood the words. It was very cute and made me feel lots better! He talks to me about soccer futbol, a lot. He got a jersey today for his favorite player (I assume) Massi. I have got to do some research so I can follow along. Kids are such good teachers, I think because they are so patient, seldom get to teach people, and are always happy when 'grownups' pay attention to them. He ran into the kitchen to ask his mom how to say something and he came back and said in very broken english "thank you for the lesson". Totally made my night.

internet troubles

Nothing new to post today because the internet for my host families apartment was down all day until a few moments ago. This caused me some alarm earlier. Being slightly paranoid and a little too sensitive I thought they had blocked me from the internet. Suffice to say I feel a bit foolish now and everything is fine. I will blame my lapse on the cold I have come down with today. Since I am feeling very under the weather I did nothing today but nap and finish Emma (amanda- I LOVED it, I can't believe it took me so long to read!) Thanks everyone for your constant help and advice whenever I have my little freak outs. I think sometimes being so far from home and in such a different place I lose my head just a little bit. It happens! That, I remind myself, is also part of an adventure. As my mom pointed out, even days when I am in paradise and the envy of my family and friends, bad days still happen. As the italians say (my two favorite expressions) "e normale" and my ultimate favorite "piano, piano". This is not a reference to a musical instrument. It means a few things; slowly, softly, little by little. My teacher says it in class when we get frustrated and my host mom says it to be whenever I get overwhelmed. It is very comforting to hear and remind myself to go slow and everything will be ok! Hopefully a good nights rest will get me going again tomorrow!