Birthday Evening

Tonight was Fabio's, the dad of my host family, birthday. Heavenly food seemed to be the order of the day. There were crepes, pasta, delicious meat balls, and some sort of cream filled cake. We sat out on their patio, terrace is probably more appropriate in Italy, and enjoyed the perfect, cool evening and the happy birthday wishes. Perfect evening.

Ostia Antica and the Lido

I must have complained enough about the rain because today was sunny, dry, and beautiful. I was so excited when I woke up and saw the sun shining because I knew it would be a perfect day to visit Ostia Antica. Once again, up and out of the house, I set off towards these old ruins which are similar to Pompeii. Ostia Antica is very close to the coast and once was a major port town for ancient Romans. It did not meet with the same fate as Pompeii via volcano, but rather slowly declined after the fall of the Roman Empire, the Tibur River shifting its course, and finally a plague of malaria. It is only 45 minutes or so outside of Rome and really shows the daily life of ancient Romans. Another bonus: today was free entry day because the Minister of Culture said so, yay for saving money on tickets.

Ostia was very peaceful, relaxing, and beautiful. I can't say whether I liked Pompeii more or less, but Ostia was very romantic. There was little left besides walls, the theater (pictured above), and a few mosaics. Nothing was roped off and so I could walk everywhere. People napped, ate, and played soccer throughout the ruins. There were very few visitors, tall cyprus trees, little green lizards running around, and a perfect breeze. I probably spent about three hours there, just enjoying the ruins and being out of the city. I have had the hardest time choosing photos for this post, I finally just posted several hoping they can show you Ostia better than I can describe.

I was really close to the beach so around 3pm I got on a train towards the Lido. It was a good idea but did not turn out as fabulous as I had hoped. First, I had a hard time actually getting to the beach. I found it easily, but there were rows of high walls and restaurants and I couldn't find an opening to walk out to the sand. I was about to give up when I spotted a three foot wide space in the wall that had access to the beach. The beach itself, however, was not very nice. It was kind of dirty, littered with cigarettes, smallish, and was full of very random people. I found a pier and walked out to get a view of the water (which was actually pretty, very blue) and see the beach from a distance. Sadly, things did not improve. I soon found myself surrounded by very affectionate couples, families, and general lovey-dovey ness. I felt a little out of place which rapidly turned into awkwardness at being all alone. For the first time in a while I was acutely aware that my loved ones are all very far away right now and that I'm really alone. I suppose the beach was romantic, but in a sort of painful romantic way. Friends and family you were all painfully missed at that moment. I decided to leave shortly thereafter because I just couldn't take the alone, awkward, and almost dumb feelings that were quickly ruining my lovely day. I was in a much better mood and stopped feeling crummy as soon as I was back in Rome. I have really gotten used to this city and feel really comfrotable living here. I need to change my mentality because at the end of this week I will be leaving and moving around between lots of different cities. For now, I will enjoy my last few days here in this hectic but wonderful place.

Tivoli

I have a few confessions to make. First, yesterday was rainy and miserable and therefore I did nothing. I mean I got on the bus after school and went 'home'. And that was it. My second confession is that this morning I broke down. Italians don't do breakfast. They have some little pastry and an espresso. My host family gives me two pieces of little toast. We all know about typical 'American Breakfasts' and those of you who have had the pleasure of waking up in my house on a weekend know my family's drill: eggs, sausage, pancakes, coffee, tea. I've been starved for high protein breakfasts. Here is the confession: I was so hungry this morning for something besides sweet bread, I went to McDonalds. Yes, embarrassing I know. But it was the only place I could find anything that was more than a croissant. I had a little toasted sandwich with cheese and ham. I won't lie, it was delicious.

Now that that is off my chest I can tell you what I did today. I knew I had to get out of Rome, otherwise I would sit around the apartment bemoaning the rain. (Have I mentioned I need sunshine to function and that there are few things I hate more than walking around in the rain getting wet?) So, I set my alarm for 8:30 and by 9:30 I was out the door heading for the Termini (main train station). My final destination: Tivoli. It was a bit of an adventure. I took my bus to the termini, then had my McDonalds, took the metro out to the last stop, got on a bus and an hour later was in Tivoli. I constantly had to remind myself being crammed on a bus with wet people and wet umbrellas that it will be worth it when I get wherever I am going. Today was more than worth it.

The town of Tivoli was a really cute, typical Italian town. After having a pretty tasty lunch I quickly found the Villa D'Este. The first thing I think of when I hear Tivoli is gardens. There are a couple villas that have gorgeous and expansive gardens in Tivoli, the Villa D'Este being one of them. There is also a Villa (of course) which was decorated in ornate frescos. The gardens were created in the 1560's and are famous for countless fountains. The entire time I walked around I heard the sound of running water. It stopped raining when I was ambling around and the combination of the sun and the rain drops made the place magical. Not to mention I had it almost to myself. Few people visit massive outdoor gardens on rainy days. I spent about an hour wandering around and probably took a 100 pictures. I chose a few to post so you can get an idea of the size, the number of fountains, and how amazing it looked.

I decided I had time to visit another famous site, and started wandering through Tivoli to find the Villa Gregoriana. They don't really do street signs in Tivoli but I finally found the Villa, mostly by following a family of tourists. This was a little different from the Villa D'Este which was clean, manicured, polished, and dainty. Villa Gregoriana was more like a hike through the woods. Thankfully I enjoy taking hikes even with mud and rain. A huge winding path took me from the top, to the bottom, and back to the top of a massive valley. Along the way I had views of a stunning water fall, a cave, and a few grottos. It was a tough work out though, but I'd say worth it.

I was completely exhausted at this point. I easily found the bus back to Rome, the metro, and then walked to my favorite gelato spot. It was a perfect day, despite the rain. I am really glad I got out of the city. I get a little crazy when I don't see dirt, grass, trees, or the sky. Rome is so hectic and busy, I loved getting to see a little italian town and enjoy the peace and quiet of the gardens. (and almost adopted a stray cat)

Parks are good for the soul

Today after class I had every intention of going to a Caravaggio exhibit. That all changed, however, when I arrived and there was a line of at least 100 people waiting to get in. I decided to try another day. It was another gorgeous sunny day, so I changed my plans to walk to the Villa Borghese gardens. I strolled along Via Veneto which is an old, famous, ritzy street. I also saw the American Embassy and tried to take a picture but the italian equivalent of Secret Service shouted that I was not allowed to take any photos, oops. Not to be discouraged I walked on and finally found the gardens at the end of Via Veneto.

The gardens are huge, if you look at a map of Rome, they are located north of everything, look for the giant green blob. I was blown away by how lovely everything was. The sun shining through the trees, little daisy flowers, kids on bikes, and people laying in the grass napping. It is so big there are even paved streets. It is kind of like Central Park (about to offend some New Yorkers) but I think more it is more beautiful. Just look at these pictures before you call me crazy.

I lounged, talked to my parents, and people watched. It was one of those moments when everything in the world seemed perfect. I was so happy just to be there. Then I started walking some more and just when I thought it couldn't get any more beautiful, it did. I stumbled upon a little manmade lake complete with boats, swans, and a gazebo. Stunning.

New shoes I bought today, needed some new tennis shoes to get around.

I decided it was time to head back home. I stumbled on a small bookstore, and decided to buy a book in italian. I said I was learning italian and wanted something easy to read. We finally decided on Nick Hornby. I've started glancing through the pages and I find I can at least get the gist of things. This is major progress. Also, lets be honest, it would be impossible for me to go somewhere and NOT buy a book. Those of you who have seen my parents home understand. It is a Barrett thing, this obsession with books.

Sometimes this city drives me crazy. I get tired of waiting for buses, random italians saying random things in italian to me on the street, panhandling, and all the cigarette smoking. But then, Rome steps up right when I am throwing my hands in the air, and gives me a day like today. Restoring my faith in Rome. It's the best possible day I could have.

Good Morning

I had my first italian dream last night. I actually spoke in italian at random times throughout my dream, I think that is really cool.

Sunny day

I am really tired. I seem to consistently underestimate walking distances in Rome and accordingly, wear myself out completely. Thankfully there are water fountains and churches to help me along the way. Class was fun today, as usual. We spent the last half hour working on intonation by making up a few sentences and practicing saying them over and over until they were perfect. Then we acted them out in front of the class, all 5 of us. Our story was about two friends who were supposed to meet for a movie at 7:45, but one showed up at 8:30, meaning they had to wait until the later showing. Our sentences were:

Luisa: OOOhhhh Buonasera! Sei in ritardo per questo spettacolo o sei in anticipo per il prossimo?

Maria: Scusami, non `e stata colpa mia!

It was really fun because we had to say the first line very sarcastically, trying to emmulate the passion in italian conversation. I swear I said that phrase 20 times! We said it faster and with more attitude, until finally we got up in pairs and acted everything out, being very silly. It was really fun. Tomorrow we find out why Maria was so late.

After class I bused to the Piazza Venezia. I saw the Vittorio Emmanuele monument, which is gigantic. It has the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and some good views of the Piazza Venezia. I took a picture of the streets by the Piazza because they are busy and crazy and show what it is like walking around central Rome.

Afterwards I went to the Musei Capitolini. It was located right behind the giant Vittorio Emmanuele monument and next to the forum. It was a neat museum, unfortunately I couldn't take pictures in my favorite rooms. They had lots of interesting things like paintings and ancient sculptures, but it was a little confusing finding rooms and exhibits.

Marcus Aurelius, known for his Meditations (and yes, the movie Gladiator)

The She-Wolf and Romulus and Remus, symbol of Rome.

The China room (mom this is for you)

Beautiful setting, check out the chandeliers

One of the most famous sculptures in the museum, "The Dying Gaul" a first century BC copy of a Greek original. Picture doesn't do it justice, but this was an incredible statue, very moving.

After the museum I found the elevator that takes you to the top of the Vittorio Emmanuele monument for great views of Rome. This was part of my planned outing. I'm glad I went today because it was a gorgeous clear day and I could really see all of Rome. I'm also glad I went this far into my trip because I actually recognized several of the buildings. I saw the Pantheon, St. Peters, Circus Maximus, and the Colosseum.

Afterwards is when I got a little walking crazy, I think the sunshine went to my head. I decided to walk down Via Cavour, a major street, to see the church Santa Maria in Maggiore. (not part of my planned outing) This sounds reasonable right? Not so much. By the time I found the church I was exhausted. Thankfully churches offer seating with a beautiful view. So I sat for a good half hour enjoying mosaics and the pretty ceiling.

I emerged and realized I had walked almost back to the train station. So I went to the train station, walked a million miles underground to get to the train, got to my Metro stop, and took the bus home. Whew. I have a list of things I want to see before I go so I am pushing myself a little bit. Now getting ready for a yummy meal with my italian family and then off to sleep!

(also, Happy San Jacinto Day AND Muster to all you Aggies!)

Typical day in Roma

I think something is happening to my brain concerning italian. It has finally given up fighting and started to speak and understand this language! I decided to use this post to show what sort of things I see on a daily basis. Like my walk to and from the bus, my friends at school, and a nice little walk I took this afternoon. That is the wisteria I walk past everyday and the other picture is of the street right before I turn into the apartment. The last picture is what the apartment looks like inside the fence. I took the picture standing in the doorway to the building. It is very pretty and the wall keeps it quiet at night.

I had a great day in school today and afterwards my friend Sara invited me out to lunch with some of her friends. Two of them were also Korean and the other was Swiss. No one else spoke english, so we all spoke italian! We went to a great restaurant that has some deal with the school for cheap lunches. My tortellini was less than 5 euro. We talked about lots of things and I found myself growing more confident and trying to speak more than usual. They were all so kind and encouraging I didn't ever feel dumb for making a mistake. It was a gorgeous sunny day today and the second part of class we sat outside on the terrace. We don't normally do this, but our teacher made an exception. In the picture, she is the in the front at the left. She is also the one who looks like an italian Fran Drescher. The girl in the picture with me is my friend Sara.

After lunch I went back to the apartment and then ventured out towards the Appian Way. I didn't really have an idea about the time, and realized I couldn't make it today because they close at 5. It was 4:30. Oops. By the way, the Appian Way consists of the old catacombs that Christians dug and used as cemeteries because no one could be buried within the Roman walls. More on that later when I actually visit. I found a beautiful park to walk through. Afterwards I kept walking, did a little window shopping, and bought some of the best gelato I have ever had. And I have had a lot of gelato. I am going to try to take more picture of 'daily life'. Things like city streets, and bars, school, buses, and whatever else I see besides the sites. I am also planning my next two weeks out. I don't have much left that I want to see in Rome. I love it here but I think I'll be excited to leave and see another part of Italy.